The Toyota 86 (also called the Scion FR-S in earlier model years) is a lightweight, rear-wheel-drive sports car that has built a reputation as one of the most modification-friendly vehicles in its price range. When Toyota first released this car in 2012, it arrived with a 2.0-liter naturally aspirated engine producing 200 horsepower—modest numbers that immediately caught the attention of tuning enthusiasts who saw potential rather than limitation.
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The 86's appeal to modifiers comes down to several factors. First, the platform is relatively affordable on the used market, with many models from 2012-2016 selling between $12,000 and $18,000. Second, it was designed with driving dynamics in mind rather than outright power, which means the chassis responds well to suspension upgrades. Third, the automotive aftermarket has flooded the 86 market with parts options because Toyota never positioned this car as a budget beater—they positioned it as a driver's car, which created demand for legitimate performance upgrades rather than cosmetic-only modifications.
Most 86 owners fall into one of three categories: those seeking better handling through suspension work, those chasing horsepower through engine modifications, and those blending both approaches. The cost difference between these categories is substantial. A suspension-focused build might run $3,000 to $8,000, while a turbo-charged engine setup can easily exceed $15,000 when including installation and tuning.
Practical takeaway: Before spending money on any modification, decide whether your goal is improved handling, increased power, or a balanced approach. This decision shapes every subsequent upgrade and determines your overall budget.
Suspension work represents the most common entry point into 86 modifications because it delivers noticeable results at lower price points than engine work. The stock 86 comes with a decent platform, but Toyota engineered it as a compromise between comfort and performance. Upgrading the suspension typically means sacrificing some ride comfort for measurable gains in cornering speed and handling precision.
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Coilover suspension kits form the backbone of most 86 builds. These are adjustable suspension systems that replace the factory springs and dampers as a complete unit. Brands like BC Racing, Tein, and Stance offer 86-specific coilovers ranging from $800 to $2,200 depending on build quality and adjustability. A budget coilover setup ($800-$1,200) gives you adjustable ride height and spring rates but limited damping adjustment. Mid-range options ($1,200-$1,600) add independently adjustable compression and rebound damping, meaning you can fine-tune how the car handles under acceleration and braking separately. Premium setups ($1,600-$2,200) offer multiple adjustment points and are built for track use or serious street performance.
Beyond coilovers, most owners upgrade their anti-roll bars (also called sway bars), which cost $300 to $600 for a quality aftermarket set. These reduce body roll during cornering. Strut braces, which connect the shock towers to reduce chassis flex, run $150 to $400 and work best when combined with coilovers. Bushings—the rubber components that connect suspension parts to the frame—can be upgraded to polyurethane versions for $200 to $500, and they noticeably improve steering feedback and reduce vague handling.
A complete suspension renovation for a street-focused 86 typically totals $2,500 to $4,500 including parts and professional installation. Track-focused builds can reach $6,000 to $8,000 when adding bracing, upgraded control arms, and specialized dampers. The real-world difference is striking: stock 86s pull about 0.87 G's in lateral grip, while a well-sorted suspension setup can achieve 1.1 to 1.15 G's.
Practical takeaway: Start with coilovers before adding other suspension pieces. They form the foundation—everything else works better once you have proper ride height and damping control. Many owners regret not starting with quality coilovers rather than budget alternatives.
The 86's 2.0-liter boxer engine sits at the heart of modification debates. Its 200 horsepower and 151 lb-ft of torque are adequate for a 2,800-pound car, but they're not thrilling. This gap between adequacy and excitement has spawned an entire industry of engine upgrades ranging from $500 bolt-on parts to complete turbocharger systems costing $15,000 or more.
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Intake and exhaust modifications represent the entry-level power approach. An aftermarket intake system (like units from Injen or AEM) costs $400 to $700 and may yield 8 to 12 horsepower at the wheels. An exhaust system (Injen, Akrapovic, or Tomei brands) runs $800 to $1,400 and adds another 10 to 15 horsepower. Neither modification is transformative alone, but together they create roughly 20 to 25 extra horsepower for about $1,400, plus better throttle response and engine sound. These bolt-on modifications don't require tuning and install in a few hours at home for mechanically inclined owners.
Slightly more involved upgrades include header installation ($400-$800) and cat-back exhaust systems with headers combined ($1,200-$1,800). These modify exhaust flow before it reaches the catalytic converter, potentially adding 20 to 30 total horsepower. They require basic mechanical skills or professional installation and don't need custom tuning on a stock tune.
Engine tuning through aftermarket ECU software—sometimes called "chipping" or "reflashing"—costs $300 to $600 and can unlock 15 to 25 additional horsepower by optimizing fuel and ignition timing. Popular options include OpenFlash Tablet, Ecutek, and Freek tuning. However, tuning works best when paired with intake and exhaust upgrades, and any tuning modification voids Toyota's factory warranty.
Turbocharging transforms the 86 from a 200-horsepower car into something entirely different. Complete bolt-on turbo kits (from companies like Vortech, Jackson Racing, or Precision) cost $3,500 to $5,500 for the parts alone. Installation runs another $1,500 to $3,000 at a professional shop, and you'll need supporting modifications: larger fuel injectors ($400-$600), upgraded fuel pump ($300-$500), intercooler ($400-$800), and custom tuning ($500-$1,200). The total for a modest turbo setup pushing 280 to 300 horsepower ranges from $7,500 to $12,000. More aggressive builds targeting 350+ horsepower can exceed $15,000 when including internal engine work like forged pistons and connecting rods ($2,000-$3,500).
Supercharging is less common than turbocharging but offers similar power with different characteristics. Centrifugal superchargers like the Vortech unit deliver smoother, more linear power delivery without turbo lag. They cost slightly less than turbos ($3,000-$4,500 for parts) but require similar supporting modifications and installation, bringing total costs into the $8,000-$11,000 range.
Practical takeaway: Establish your power target before spending money. A $1,400 intake-and-exhaust setup satisfies many owners, while others need the drama of turbocharging. There's no "correct" answer, but budget accordingly—turbocharging costs 5 to 10 times more than bolt-on mods.
Many new 86 modifiers overlook brakes until they've added significant power or lowered the car to aggressive angles. This is a mistake. The factory brake system, while adequate for stock power levels, begins to fade under sustained track use or when paired with power modifications. Upgrading brakes is not about adding showiness—it's about maintaining
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