Your Free Guide to RV Air Conditioning Installation

Understanding RV Air Conditioning Systems and Your Options

Recreational vehicles use air conditioning systems to keep living spaces cool during travel and camping. Unlike home air conditioning, RV systems are designed to work efficiently in smaller spaces while drawing power from the vehicle's electrical system. Understanding how these systems work helps you make informed decisions about installation and maintenance.

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There are three main types of RV air conditioning systems: roof-mounted units, portable units, and under-floor systems. Roof-mounted units, also called rooftop air conditioners, sit on top of the RV and pull heat away from the interior. These are the most common choice for full-time RV living and larger motorhomes. Portable units offer flexibility for smaller RVs or trailers and can be removed if you switch vehicles. Under-floor systems are less common but provide efficient cooling without taking up roof space.

Each system type has different power requirements. A typical rooftop air conditioner draws between 13 and 15 amps while running, meaning your RV's electrical system must handle this load. Portable units generally require 12 or 13 amps. Understanding your RV's current electrical capacity is crucial before choosing a new unit, as installing a system your power supply cannot support will cause repeated breaker trips and cooling failures.

RV air conditioning units come in various cooling capacities, measured in BTU (British Thermal Units). A 13,500 BTU unit works well for Class B and Class C motorhomes and most travel trailers. Larger RVs may need 15,000 BTU units or multiple units. The physical size of your RV, ceiling height, insulation quality, and climate where you camp all affect how much cooling capacity you need.

Practical Takeaway: Before pursuing installation, document your RV's make, model, available roof space, current electrical panel capacity, and interior dimensions. This information guides your equipment selection and helps you understand what installation will involve.

Evaluating Your RV's Electrical System Capacity

Your RV's electrical system is the foundation of any air conditioning installation. Most RVs have either a 30-amp or 50-amp electrical service. This number refers to the maximum amperage the system can safely deliver at one time. Running air conditioning, along with other appliances like microwaves, water heaters, and refrigerators, consumes this available power.

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A 30-amp service typically allows one air conditioning unit to run safely, but running other high-power appliances simultaneously can cause problems. A 50-amp service provides more flexibility and can usually handle one rooftop air conditioner plus other appliances running together. Attempting to run equipment beyond your system's capacity causes circuit breakers to trip, leaving you without cooling or power.

To evaluate your electrical system, locate your RV's main electrical panel. This is usually found in a cabinet or closet near the entry door or in a basement compartment. Look at the main breaker switch—it will be labeled with either 30 or 50 amps. Also check whether you have 120-volt service only or both 120-volt and 240-volt service. Some RVs have 240-volt lines that can power larger air conditioning units more efficiently.

Calculate your available amperage by listing all appliances you might run simultaneously. Your microwave might draw 10 amps, a water heater 12 amps, an air conditioner 13-15 amps, and lights and outlets another 5-10 amps. If these numbers add up to more than your system's capacity, you cannot safely run everything at once. You may need an electrical system upgrade before installing air conditioning, which involves consulting an RV technician to assess your specific situation.

Battery capacity also matters for boondocking situations where you camp without shore power. Most RV air conditioners require being plugged into an external power source—they draw too much current to run on batteries alone. If you want cooling while dry camping, you would need a portable unit that draws less power, though even these work best with an external generator.

Practical Takeaway: Visit your RV's electrical panel and record your main breaker amperage. Make a list of appliances you want to run together, estimate their power draw, and compare to your available amperage. This determines whether you can proceed with standard air conditioning installation or need electrical upgrades first.

Choosing the Right Air Conditioning Unit for Your RV

Selecting an appropriate air conditioning unit involves matching the unit's cooling capacity to your RV's size and considering where the unit will be located. The cooling capacity you need depends on several factors: the RV's square footage, ceiling height, insulation quality, number of windows, and the climate where you'll camp most often.

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For smaller RVs under 30 feet long, a single 13,500 BTU rooftop unit typically provides sufficient cooling. Travel trailers and Class B motorhomes often use this capacity standard. Larger Class C and Class A motorhomes may benefit from 15,000 BTU units. Some RVers with very large vehicles choose dual air conditioning systems with two units mounted on the roof, which allows better cooling distribution and redundancy if one unit fails.

Rooftop units from established manufacturers like Dometic, Coleman, and Advent offer several price points. Budget models range from $600 to $1,200, while mid-range units cost $1,200 to $2,000, and premium units with advanced controls run $2,000 to $3,500 or more. Higher-priced units often offer quieter operation, more efficient cooling, digital controls, and longer warranties. Portable units typically cost $400 to $1,500 depending on cooling capacity and features.

When comparing models, look at several specifications: cooling capacity in BTU, power consumption in amps, noise level in decibels, and warranty length. A unit rated at 70 decibels will be noticeably quieter than one at 75 decibels. Some units offer "smart" features like thermostats that learn your preferences or phone app controls. These features add cost but may improve comfort and efficiency.

Consider where the unit will mount. Rooftop installation requires ceiling cutout space, usually requiring a 14-inch by 14-inch opening. Your RV's roof construction, material, and existing penetrations affect installation difficulty. Some RV roofs are aluminum, while others use fiberglass or rubber. Each material requires different mounting techniques and sealants.

Research the specific unit's reputation through RV forums and reviews. Look for feedback about how units perform in hot climates, whether they're durable over several years, and what common repair issues owners report. This information helps you avoid models known for recurring problems.

Practical Takeaway: Use your RV's dimensions to estimate cooling needs, then research three to four models in your price range. Compare their BTU capacity, power draw, noise rating, and warranty terms. Read user reviews on RV forums to understand how these models perform in real-world camping situations before making a purchase decision.

Preparing Your RV for Air Conditioning Installation

Proper preparation ensures your installation goes smoothly and your new air conditioning system operates reliably. This preparation phase involves inspection, planning, and gathering necessary materials before any work begins.

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Start by examining your RV's roof condition. Walk the exterior and look for soft spots, water stains, or signs of previous leaks around the ceiling area. Check underneath from inside, looking at the ceiling material for discoloration or sagging. These signs indicate roof deterioration that should be addressed before cutting into the roof for air conditioning installation. If your roof has structural issues, water will likely penetrate around the new unit's mounting penetration, causing interior damage.

Inspect the area where the unit will mount. For rooftop units, this means examining the roof surface, checking for adequate spacing from vents and other roof penetrations, and confirming there's interior ceiling space for the unit's housing. Measure the available space and compare it to your chosen unit's dimensions. Clearance matters for airflow—the unit needs space to intake air without obstruction.

Review your RV's roof covering material and specifications. Check whether you have aluminum, fiberglass, or rubber roof covering, as each requires specific sealants and fastening methods. Consult your RV's owner manual for roof specifications and any restrictions on penetrations. Some RV warranties specify how roof modifications must be done or may require specific