Your Free Guide to Raccoon Removal and Prevention

Understanding Why Raccoons Enter Homes and Buildings

Raccoons are one of the most common wildlife problems homeowners face across North America. According to the Wildlife Control Institute, raccoon complaints increase by about 15% annually in suburban areas. Understanding what draws these animals to your property is the first step toward prevention.

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Raccoons enter homes and buildings for three primary reasons: food, shelter, and water. Unlike many wildlife pests, raccoons are intelligent foragers with excellent problem-solving abilities. They can open latches, turn doorknobs, and manipulate containers—behaviors that make them particularly difficult to deter once they've discovered a food source on your property.

Food sources are the most common attractant. A single raccoon can consume up to 40 pounds of food per year, and they're not picky eaters. Unsecured garbage cans rank as the number one food draw, but raccoons also raid pet food left outside, access bird feeders, dig through compost bins, and eat fallen fruit from trees. They're primarily nocturnal, so they typically forage between dusk and dawn, though they may venture out during the day if hungry enough.

Shelter needs drive raccoons to attics, crawl spaces, chimneys, and sheds. A female raccoon seeking a den site to raise young (typically February through May) becomes especially motivated to find protected spaces. Once inside, they can cause significant damage—tearing insulation, damaging electrical wiring, and contaminating spaces with feces that contain parasites harmful to humans.

Water sources also matter. Raccoons need water daily and will be drawn to pet water bowls left outside, birdbaths, swimming pools, or even water puddles from irrigation systems. Removing these water sources, combined with eliminating food attractants, addresses the fundamental reasons raccoons visit properties.

Takeaway: The most effective prevention strategy focuses on removing what attracts raccoons rather than trying to repel them. Identify which food sources, water access points, or shelter opportunities exist on your property, then address each one systematically.

Securing Garbage and Food Storage to Prevent Raccoon Access

Garbage management is where most raccoon problems begin—and where they can be stopped. The Humane Society reports that over 60% of residential raccoon complaints relate to garbage can access. Raccoons have learned that trash cans reliably contain food, and they're remarkably persistent once they identify a can as a resource.

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Standard plastic garbage cans with swing-top or snap-down lids offer minimal protection. A raccoon's front paws have five digits with sharp claws and surprising dexterity—they can pry open lids, tip over cans, and even unsnap simple latches. Heavy-duty bear-proof or raccoon-proof containers with locking mechanisms are substantially more effective. These containers feature lids that require deliberate, forceful opening or use locking clamps that raccoons cannot operate.

Storage strategy matters as much as container type. Keep cans in a garage, shed, or enclosed structure until collection day whenever possible. If outdoor storage is necessary, place cans in a locked cabinet or enclosure designed for this purpose. Put cans out for collection no earlier than the morning of pickup rather than the evening before—this reduces the window when raccoons can access them.

Beyond trash cans, secure other food sources:

• Pet food: Never leave pet food outside overnight. Feed pets indoors or remove uneaten portions within a few hours. This single step eliminates a primary raccoon attractant.
• Bird feeders: Remove feeders at dusk or use pole-mounted feeders at least 12 feet from trees, fences, or roof edges. Raccoons are excellent climbers and jumpers—they can reach feeders on standard shepherd's crook poles.
• Compost bins: Avoid composting meat, fish, dairy, or oils. Use enclosed, animal-proof compost containers rather than open piles. Bury food scraps under at least 12 inches of finished compost.
• Fruit trees: Pick up fallen fruit daily. Trim tree branches hanging over roofs or near structures to reduce access routes.
• Outdoor grills: Clean grills after each use and store them in a garage or shed. Raccoons are attracted to the smell of grease and meat residue.

Takeaway: Make your property an unrewarding place for raccoons to forage. Consistent food source management is more effective than any deterrent because it removes the reason raccoons visit in the first place.

Sealing Entry Points and Protecting Vulnerable Areas

Once raccoons recognize your property as dangerous (no food, no water, no shelter), they're unlikely to stay. However, if your home has accessible entry points, a hungry or nesting raccoon may still attempt entry. Sealing these points prevents the problem from escalating to removal.

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Common entry points include gaps around roof vents, damaged soffits, open chimney tops, uncovered crawl spaces, broken foundation vents, and gaps where utilities enter the home. A raccoon needs only a 3-4 inch opening to squeeze through. Even small gaps can be enlarged quickly with their claws and strength.

Inspection is the critical first step. Walk around your home's exterior during daylight, looking at:

• All roof edges, overhangs, and soffits—look for gaps, damage, or loose sections
• Chimney tops and exterior vents for dryer, kitchen, and bathroom exhaust
• Foundation perimeter, including any openings for crawl space access
• Gaps around doors and windows, particularly basement doors and windows
• Any openings where pipes, electrical lines, or other utilities enter the home
• Deck and porch undersides, which can shelter dens

Sealing methods depend on the size and location of the opening. Small gaps (under 1 inch) can be sealed with caulk rated for exterior use. Larger gaps require hardware cloth or metal mesh. Raccoons cannot chew through hardware cloth like rodents can, making it an ideal material. Secure hardware cloth with galvanized screws or nails, overlapping seams by at least 2 inches. For openings like chimney tops, install a properly fitted chimney cap or cage—this prevents raccoons from entering while maintaining necessary ventilation.

Decks and porches present specific challenges because they create sheltered den sites underneath. Install hardware cloth skirting from the deck edge down to the ground, extending at least 12 inches into the soil or burying it slightly. This prevents raccoons from burrowing underneath or accessing the space.

For ongoing maintenance, inspect sealed areas seasonally. Weather, settling, and pest damage can compromise seals over time. Damaged areas should be resealed promptly.

Takeaway: Think of sealing as creating a physical barrier against entry rather than a permanent solution. Combined with food source removal, sealed entry points make your home substantially less attractive than other available shelter options in your neighborhood.

Removing an Active Raccoon Infestation Safely and Legally

If raccoons have already entered your home, attic, chimney, or other enclosed spaces, removal becomes necessary. This situation is more complex than prevention because it involves dealing with an animal that may be frightened, defensive, or nursing young.

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The first step is documenting the problem. Look for signs of active occupation: raccoon droppings in attics or crawl spaces, ripped insulation, electrical damage, or sounds of movement (typically at night). These indicators tell you whether you're dealing with an active infestation or evidence of past occupation.

Removal methods vary based on your location and local regulations. Many states classify raccoons as furbearers, and removal is legally restricted to specific seasons or methods. Some jurisdictions require professional wildlife removal; others allow homeowner removal under certain conditions. Before attempting any removal, contact your state's wildlife agency or local animal control to understand legal requirements in your area.

Professional wildlife removal services handle this problem by: