Cornhole is a lawn game that has grown in popularity across the United States over the past two decades. The game involves tossing bean bags at a wooden board that has a hole near the top end. Understanding the standard dimensions is the first step toward building your own boards. According to the American Cornhole League, official tournament boards measure 48 inches long, 24 inches wide, and stand 12 inches tall at the high end, sloping down to 0 inches at the low end. The hole in the board should be 6 inches in diameter, positioned 9 inches from the top of the board and centered width-wise.
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While tournament specifications exist, many people building boards for casual backyard use choose slightly different dimensions based on their space and skill level. Some recreational boards are made smaller for children or tighter spaces. The standard slope or pitch of the board helps bean bags roll toward the hole after landing. Understanding these measurements before purchasing materials prevents costly mistakes and ensures your finished boards function properly during gameplay.
The board thickness typically ranges from three-quarter inch to one inch plywood, which provides durability while remaining light enough to transport. Most homemade boards use a frame structure with plywood for the playing surface. The bean bags used in cornhole typically weigh between 14 and 16 ounces and measure approximately 6 inches square. Knowing these specifications helps you design a board that plays consistently and lasts for years.
Practical takeaway: Before gathering materials, measure your intended play space and decide whether you want tournament-regulation boards or custom-sized boards for your specific needs. Write down your target dimensions so you don't second-guess yourself at the lumber yard.
Building cornhole boards requires relatively inexpensive materials that you can find at any home improvement store. The primary material is three-quarter inch plywood, typically birch or pine. For two boards, you'll need approximately one sheet of 4-by-8-foot plywood, which costs between $35 and $50 depending on the wood quality and your location. Beyond plywood, you'll need two-by-four lumber for the frame structure, wood screws (2.5 inches long), wood glue, and finishing materials such as paint or polyurethane sealant.
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The choice between plywood types affects both cost and durability. Birch plywood is harder and more resistant to wear, making it ideal for boards that will see frequent use. Pine plywood is less expensive but softer, meaning bean bags may create divots over time. Many builders use birch or oak veneer plywood as a middle ground—offering decent durability at moderate cost. Sanded plywood provides a smoother playing surface than unsanded varieties, which improves bean bag slide.
When shopping for two-by-four lumber, select boards that are straight and free of major knots or warping. Warped wood makes it difficult to assemble square boards and affects playability. Purchase pressure-treated wood if your boards will remain outdoors year-round, though this costs more than standard lumber. For the hole saw used to cut the 6-inch hole, you have two options: rent a specialized hole saw from a tool rental shop for $10 to $15 per day, or purchase one for $20 to $40 if you plan to build multiple sets.
Practical takeaway: Create a materials list with exact quantities before visiting the store. Bringing your board dimension sketches helps staff cut lumber to length if you lack a saw at home, saving you money and effort.
The frame provides structural support and determines the board's slope. Start by cutting your two-by-four lumber into pieces: four pieces measuring 48 inches for the long sides and supports, and four pieces measuring 24 inches for the width. Assemble the frame on a flat surface using wood glue and 2.5-inch wood screws, drilling pilot holes first to prevent wood splitting. The frame should form a rectangle with internal dimensions of 48 by 24 inches. Attach two support pieces underneath that run lengthwise, positioned roughly one-third and two-thirds along the width. These supports prevent the plywood from sagging under weight and impact from bean bags.
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Creating the slope requires building the high end 12 inches tall and the low end at ground level. This is typically accomplished by making the frame structure itself sloped, with taller legs on one end and shorter legs or no legs on the other. Some builders create a slope by attaching the plywood at an angle, while others prefer to cut the plywood itself at an angle. The angled approach requires cutting a triangle-shaped piece of wood and attaching it to the underside of the plywood at the high end. Calculate the slope angle: 12 inches of rise over 48 inches of length equals approximately 14 degrees.
Once your frame is assembled and square, cut your plywood to 48 by 24 inches if it hasn't been pre-cut. Attach the plywood to the frame using wood screws spaced every 6 inches around the perimeter and across support beams. This ensures the surface remains flat and doesn't buckle. Now measure carefully to locate the hole position: 9 inches from the top (the high end) and centered on the 24-inch width, which places it 12 inches from each side edge. Mark the center point clearly, then use your hole saw to cut the 6-inch diameter hole. Work slowly and let the saw do the work to prevent splintering.
Practical takeaway: Assemble the frame on sawhorses to keep everything level during construction. Use a level tool frequently throughout assembly to ensure your finished boards won't roll bean bags unpredictably.
The finishing process protects your boards from weather and wear while creating an appealing appearance. Lightly sand the entire playing surface with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth rough spots and prepare it for finish. Pay special attention to the edges and the area around the hole. Remove all dust with a tack cloth or damp rag before applying finish. The sanded surface should feel smooth to the touch and look uniform in appearance.
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For outdoor boards that will experience rain and UV exposure, apply a polyurethane sealant rated for outdoor use. Water-based polyurethane is easier to apply and has lower odor than oil-based versions, though oil-based polyurethane provides superior weather resistance. Apply two coats with light sanding between coats. Allow proper drying time between coats—typically 4 to 6 hours for water-based and 8 to 24 hours for oil-based products. Some builders prefer painting their boards instead, which provides color options and good protection. Exterior acrylic paint works well and comes in virtually any color. Paint typically requires two coats for full coverage.
The area around the hole and the hole itself deserve special attention. Paint or seal the plywood edges around the hole to prevent moisture absorption and splintering. If you plan to play in wet conditions, consider applying a non-slip coating to the playing surface. This coating, similar to deck paint with grit additives, prevents bean bags from sliding too fast on wet surfaces and provides safer footing for players. Allow adequate curing time—often 24 to 48 hours—before playing on newly finished boards.
Practical takeaway: Keep detailed notes about the finish products you use, including the number of coats and curing time. This information helps you maintain your boards consistently and know exactly what to use for touch-ups or seasonal preparation.
Once you understand the basic board construction, numerous customization options allow you to personalize your boards. Many people paint team logos, names, or decorative designs on their boards. Use stencils and exterior paint for designs that will withstand weather exposure. Some builders create themed boards featuring sports teams, holiday designs, or family names. These custom designs don't affect playability but make your boards stand out and add personality to your game setup.
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Structural variations also exist within the basic cornhole format. Some builders create portable boards with folding legs that collapse for transportation, useful if you frequently take your boards to different locations. This requires hinged leg connections and slightly more complex carpentry but increases practicality. Others build scoring cup holders into their boards or create compartments underneath for storing bean bags. These additions require additional planning
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