Learn How to Grow Cabbage From Seed to Harvest

Understanding Cabbage Varieties and Growing Requirements

Cabbage comes in several distinct varieties, each with different characteristics that affect how you'll grow them. The three main types are green cabbage, red cabbage, and Savoy cabbage. Green cabbage varieties like 'Early Jersey Wakefield' and 'Golden Acre' are the most common and typically mature in 60 to 80 days. Red cabbage varieties such as 'Red Drumhead' take longer, usually 90 to 120 days, but offer striking color and slightly sweeter flavor. Savoy cabbage, recognizable by its crinkled leaves, matures in about 70 to 90 days and has a more delicate texture than smooth-leafed varieties.

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Before selecting a variety, consider your climate zone and local growing season length. Cabbage is a cool-season crop that prefers temperatures between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate light frost and actually tastes sweeter after exposure to cold weather. If you live in a warm climate, plan to grow cabbage in fall and winter months rather than spring and summer. Cabbage requires full sun, meaning at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though it can tolerate partial shade in very hot climates.

Soil preparation is critical for successful cabbage growth. Cabbage prefers well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. The soil should be rich in organic matter, so incorporate 2 to 3 inches of compost or aged manure before planting. Cabbage is a heavy feeder that depletes soil nutrients, particularly nitrogen. You'll want soil that retains moisture but doesn't become waterlogged, as poor drainage leads to root rot and disease. Testing your soil before planting will reveal nutrient levels and pH, allowing you to make adjustments with lime or sulfur if needed.

Practical Takeaway: Choose a cabbage variety suited to your climate and growing season length. Most gardeners in temperate zones do well with green cabbage varieties in spring or early summer. Prepare your soil by incorporating compost and checking that drainage is adequate, as cabbage needs consistent moisture without waterlogging.

Starting Cabbage From Seed Indoors and Transplanting Outdoors

Growing cabbage from seed indoors gives you more control over timing and allows you to have transplants ready when outdoor conditions are ideal. Start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your planned transplant date. Fill seed trays or small pots with sterile seed-starting mix, which is lighter and more disease-resistant than garden soil. Plant seeds about one-quarter inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Cabbage seeds germinate best at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and will sprout in 7 to 10 days under these conditions.

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Once seedlings emerge, they need bright light to prevent becoming leggy and weak. Place them under grow lights positioned 2 to 3 inches above the seedlings, keeping lights on for 14 to 16 hours daily. If you don't have grow lights, a south-facing window works, though you may need to rotate trays regularly for even growth. Water seedlings from below by placing pots in a tray of water rather than watering from above, which reduces disease risk. When seedlings develop their first true leaves (the second set of leaves that appear), you can thin them or transplant them into individual small pots.

Hardening off seedlings is essential before transplanting outdoors. About 7 to 10 days before your transplant date, gradually expose seedlings to outdoor conditions. Start by placing them in a sheltered spot outdoors for 1 to 2 hours, gradually increasing exposure time over a week. This toughens the plants and reduces transplant shock. When transplanting into the garden, space plants 12 to 18 inches apart for smaller varieties and up to 24 inches apart for larger head varieties. Dig a hole slightly deeper than the root ball and plant seedlings at the same depth they were growing in their pots, or slightly deeper to encourage additional root development.

Practical Takeaway: Start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your outdoor transplant date under bright grow lights or in a sunny window. Harden off seedlings gradually over a week before moving them to the garden, spacing them 12 to 24 inches apart depending on variety.

Direct Seeding Cabbage and Managing Young Plant Growth

While starting cabbage from seed indoors is common, many gardeners directly seed cabbage into prepared garden beds. Direct seeding works well in climates where the growing season is long enough and temperatures cooperate. Plant seeds directly into the garden when soil temperatures reach at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit, though germination is faster and more reliable when soil is 60 degrees or warmer. Plant seeds one-quarter to one-half inch deep, spacing them about 3 inches apart in rows or groupings. Seeds will germinate in 7 to 14 days depending on soil temperature.

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Young cabbage plants need consistent moisture as they establish. Water deeply after planting and maintain soil moisture at about 1 to 1.5 inches per week through rain or irrigation. Inconsistent watering causes several problems in young cabbages, including split heads later in development and increased susceptibility to disease. Mulching around plants with 1 to 2 inches of straw or wood chips helps retain soil moisture and keeps soil temperature more consistent. Be careful not to pile mulch directly against the plant stem, as this creates conditions favorable for rot and pest damage.

Thinning seedlings is necessary for both indoor-started and direct-seeded cabbages. When plants develop their first true leaves and are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin them to their final spacing. This might feel wasteful, but crowded seedlings grow weak and compete for nutrients and light, resulting in poor head formation. Thin by carefully removing weaker seedlings rather than pulling them out, which can damage roots of neighboring plants. You can eat thinned seedlings in salads if they're large enough, but most are too small to be worthwhile. As seedlings grow, they'll develop more leaves and gradually form the distinctive cabbage head structure.

Practical Takeaway: If direct seeding, plant seeds when soil is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit for reliable germination. Keep young plants consistently watered and mulched, and thin seedlings ruthlessly when they're 2 to 3 inches tall to prevent overcrowding and weak growth.

Providing Ongoing Nutrition and Managing Water Needs

Cabbage is a nutrient-hungry crop that requires consistent feeding throughout the growing season. Nitrogen is particularly important for leaf development, but cabbage also needs adequate phosphorus and potassium for overall plant health and head formation. If you prepared your soil with compost before planting, you've provided an initial nutrient boost, but supplemental feeding will improve results. Apply a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or a higher-nitrogen formula like 16-10-10 every 3 to 4 weeks once plants are established. Side-dress plants by sprinkling fertilizer in a circle around each plant, about 6 inches away from the stem, then water it in thoroughly.

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Some gardeners prefer organic fertilization methods, such as fish emulsion, seaweed extract, or compost tea applied every 2 to 3 weeks. These products provide nutrients gradually and improve soil biology over time. Slow-release fertilizers mixed into soil at planting also work well for cabbage, releasing nutrients steadily throughout the season. Whichever fertilization method you choose, avoid over-fertilizing, as this promotes excessive leaf growth at the expense of head formation. Watch plants for signs of nutrient deficiency: yellowing leaves often indicate nitrogen deficiency, while purple-tinged leaves suggest phosphorus deficiency.

Water management directly affects cabbage quality and success. Cabbage requires 1 to 1.5 inches of water weekly from rain or irrigation, with consistent moisture being more important than occasional heavy watering. Inconsistent watering is the primary cause of split heads—the cabbage head literally cracks open due to rapid water uptake after a dry period. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead sprinklers when possible, as these deliver water directly to the soil and reduce leaf wetness that promotes fungal diseases.