Learn How to Build a Wood Fence Yourself

Understanding Wood Fence Basics Before You Start

Building a wood fence is a project that many homeowners tackle themselves, and understanding the fundamentals makes the process more manageable. A typical wood fence consists of four main components: posts (the vertical supports), rails (horizontal pieces that connect posts), pickets (the vertical boards you see), and hardware (nails, screws, and brackets). The most common fence heights for residential properties range from 4 to 6 feet, with 4 feet being popular for decorative purposes and 6 feet for privacy. Most homeowners spend between 40 to 80 hours on a fence project, depending on the length and their experience level.

Get Your Free Will Copy Information Guide →

Before deciding to build your own fence, consider what you actually need. A fence serves different purposes—privacy screening, pet containment, property boundary definition, or simply aesthetic appeal. These purposes determine your design choices. For instance, a privacy fence typically uses solid boards placed closely together, while a decorative fence might feature spaced pickets with decorative tops. The terrain of your property matters significantly too. Level ground is easiest to work with, but sloped yards require stepped fence sections or racked fencing (where boards angle to follow the slope).

Wood choice affects both cost and longevity. Treated lumber costs less initially but requires occasional maintenance. Cedar and redwood naturally resist rot and insects but carry higher price tags—sometimes 30 to 50 percent more than treated wood. Pressure-treated pine costs around $3 to $8 per linear foot for a 6-foot section, while cedar can run $8 to $15 per linear foot. Your local climate should influence this decision. In humid or wet regions, rot-resistant woods make financial sense despite the upfront cost.

Practical takeaway: Visit a local lumber yard with measurements of your property. Talk with staff about which wood species thrive in your climate, and get quotes for different materials so you can weigh initial cost against expected lifespan.

Measuring Your Property and Planning the Layout

Accurate measurements are the foundation of any successful fence project. You'll need to know the total linear footage of fence you're installing, the precise locations of corners, and any obstacles like trees, utility lines, or drainage areas. Start by marking your property boundaries. If you don't have a survey, contact your local assessor's office—most provide boundary information for a small fee or sometimes free through public records. This step prevents disputes with neighbors and ensures you're not building on their land.

Learn About Low Income Housing and Section 8 Options →

Measure your property in sections, adding them together for total footage. For a rectangular lot, this is straightforward, but irregular shapes require breaking the perimeter into smaller segments. Use a measuring tape that's at least 100 feet long, or rent one from a hardware store. Note any significant elevation changes; fences on slopes often need special planning. Document the location of underground utilities—call 811 before you dig anywhere. This free service marks underground gas, electric, and water lines so you won't hit them when installing posts.

Next, plan your post spacing. Standard spacing is 6 to 8 feet apart, with 6 feet being more common for residential fences because it requires less material yet remains structurally sound. Some people space posts 5 feet apart for extra rigidity or to work with standard board lengths (which come in 6-foot, 8-foot, and 12-foot increments). If your property length doesn't divide evenly by your chosen spacing, adjust slightly rather than ending with one very short section. For example, if you have 50 feet of fence space and choose 6-foot spacing, you'd install posts at 0, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, and 50 feet.

Create a detailed sketch showing post locations, corner positions, and any gates. This visual reference prevents confusion during construction and helps you calculate exactly how much material you need. Mark these locations on the ground using spray paint, stakes, or flour—you'll use these marks when digging post holes.

Practical takeaway: Spend an afternoon measuring and creating your layout sketch. This planning stage takes a few hours but prevents expensive mistakes and material waste during construction.

Gathering Materials and Tools—What You Actually Need

A fence project requires specific materials and tools. Getting this list right before you start prevents multiple trips to the store. For a typical 100-foot fence with 6-foot post spacing, you'll need approximately 18 posts (usually 4x4 lumber, typically 8 feet tall for a 6-foot finished height), roughly 36 rails (2x4 lumber, with two rails per section running horizontally), and 300 to 400 pickets (1x6 boards), depending on spacing. Add 10 percent extra to account for mistakes or damaged boards.

First Latitude Credit Card Information Guide →

Hardware needs include galvanized or stainless steel nails or screws—never use regular steel, which rusts and stains wood. Most people use 3-inch exterior-grade screws for rail-to-post connections and 2.5-inch screws for pickets. Screws hold better than nails and are easier to remove if mistakes happen. You'll also need concrete for setting posts (roughly 50 pounds per hole), gate hardware if you're including a gate (hinges and latches cost $15 to $50), and wood stain or sealant if you want to protect your fence.

Essential tools include a power drill (for pre-drilling and driving screws), a circular saw or miter saw (for cutting boards to length), a level (4-foot length is standard), a post-hole digger or auger (renting a power auger costs $40 to $80 per day), measuring tape, a square, and safety equipment (gloves, eye protection, dust mask). Many people rent the power auger—it saves significant labor compared to digging by hand. A basic hand-dug post hole takes 30 to 45 minutes; a power auger reduces this to 5 to 10 minutes per hole.

Budget considerations matter here. A DIY approach for a 100-foot fence typically costs $800 to $2,000 in materials, depending on wood choice. A contractor would charge $2,500 to $5,000 for the same project. Tool rental usually costs $100 to $200 total. Many hardware stores offer free tool demonstrations, and staff can show you how to use unfamiliar equipment.

Practical takeaway: Create a detailed materials list based on your measurements, then visit your lumber supplier with this list. Get a quote in writing and compare prices between suppliers—prices vary by 20 to 30 percent.

Installing Posts—The Critical Foundation Step

Post installation determines whether your fence stands straight and lasts for years or shifts and fails. This step cannot be rushed. Posts must be vertical, spaced correctly, and set in concrete deep enough to resist frost heave (the upward movement of soil during freeze-thaw cycles). In cold climates, posts should extend 1/3 of their total length into the ground—so a 8-foot post should go 2.5 to 3 feet deep. In warmer regions where frost isn't a concern, 2 feet deep is typically sufficient.

How to Connect Your Comcast Remote to TV →

Start by using your marked locations to dig post holes. A power auger makes this significantly easier, especially if you have many posts or hard soil. Augers come in hand-crank and engine-powered versions; engine-powered is worth renting if you have more than 8 posts. Dig your hole about 10 inches in diameter and to your predetermined depth. Remove any rocks or debris from the bottom of the hole—these prevent the concrete from setting properly.

Place your first post in the hole and use a level to ensure it's perfectly vertical in both directions (front-to-back and side-to-side). Have a helper hold the post while you check it, or temporarily brace it with scrap boards. Once it's plumb, mix concrete according to package directions and fill the hole around the post. Concrete mixes come in bags that you add water to, or you can use pre-mixed concrete in buckets. For one post, a 50-pound bag typically provides enough concrete for a 2.5 to 3-foot deep hole with an 8-inch diameter. Let the concrete cure for 24 hours before proceeding.

Spacing accuracy becomes critical as you install subsequent posts. Measure from the center of one post to the center of