How to Plant Cherry Trees From Seeds

Understanding Cherry Tree Varieties and Seed Viability

Cherry trees come in two main categories: sweet cherries and sour (tart) cherries. Sweet cherries, like Bing and Rainier varieties, produce the larger fruit typically sold fresh in markets. Sour cherries, including Montmorency and Balaton, are smaller and more commonly used for pies, jams, and preserves. This distinction matters when starting from seeds because different varieties have different growing requirements and timelines.

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Seeds from store-bought cherries may not produce trees identical to their parent plant. This occurs because many commercial cherry varieties are hybrids or grafted cultivars. When you plant a seed from a Bing cherry purchased at a grocery store, the resulting tree might produce smaller fruit, fruit of different flavor, or fruit that ripens at a different time. However, growing a cherry tree from seed remains a viable project that yields trees capable of producing usable fruit within 5-8 years, though some trees may take up to 10 years.

Seed viability is another key consideration. Cherry seeds have a dormancy period—a natural state where they will not germinate until they experience cold winter conditions. Fresh seeds from cherries you've eaten have the highest germination rates, typically between 20-30 percent. Seeds stored improperly or kept in warm conditions for extended periods show significantly lower germination rates. The germination rate represents the percentage of seeds that will actually sprout under proper conditions.

Before you begin, collect seeds from healthy, ripe cherries. Remove the flesh completely by rinsing the seeds under cool water and rubbing them gently until clean. Pat them dry with paper towels. Store cleaned seeds in a refrigerator at 40 degrees Fahrenheit if you cannot plant them immediately. Properly stored seeds remain viable for several months, though planting them within weeks of harvest produces better results.

Practical takeaway: Identify which cherry variety you want to grow and understand that seed-grown trees may differ from their parent fruit. Collect fresh seeds from ripe cherries and clean them thoroughly before storage or planting.

The Stratification Process: Preparing Seeds for Germination

Stratification is the process of exposing seeds to cold, moist conditions that break their dormancy and prepare them for germination. This mimics the natural winter cycle that cherry seeds experience in their native environments. Without stratification, cherry seeds will not germinate, even under otherwise perfect growing conditions. The process typically requires 8-16 weeks of cold treatment, with 12 weeks being the standard timeframe for most cherry varieties.

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To stratify cherry seeds, you'll need a refrigerator, a sealed plastic container, and a medium like sand, peat moss, or paper towels. Begin by placing your cleaned, dry seeds in the container. Add moistened (but not waterlogged) medium around the seeds—moisture is essential, but the medium should feel like a wrung-out sponge, not soggy. Some gardeners use the paper towel method: wrap seeds in moist paper towels, place them in a sealed plastic bag, and refrigerate. This method allows you to check seed progress without disturbing the medium.

Place the sealed container in your refrigerator where it will remain at approximately 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the seeds every 2-3 weeks. If the medium has dried out, add a small amount of water. If mold appears, remove affected seeds and replace the medium. Mold growth doesn't necessarily indicate failure; many seeds survive even with some mold present. After 8-12 weeks, you should observe small white root tips emerging from some seeds. Once roots appear, seeds are ready for planting outdoors or in containers.

Timing matters for stratification. If you have seeds in winter (December-February in the Northern Hemisphere), you can bury them outdoors in a protected location and allow nature to stratify them. Many gardeners prefer this method because it requires less monitoring. Dig a small hole, place seeds in moistened sand or soil, and mark the location. Nature's cold cycle accomplishes stratification naturally. Come spring, you can dig up the seeds and plant them, or leave them buried and allow them to germinate in place.

Practical takeaway: Stratify seeds using either refrigeration for 12 weeks or natural winter burial. Monitor stratifying seeds every few weeks and watch for white root emergence as your signal that seeds are ready to plant.

Planting Stratified Seeds in Containers or Direct Planting

After stratification, you have two options: plant seeds in containers indoors and transplant later, or plant directly in garden soil outdoors. Container planting offers more control over moisture and temperature, making it suitable for gardeners in areas with unpredictable spring weather. Direct planting saves time and labor but requires patience to wait until spring to plant and protection from birds and rodents who may eat seeds.

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For container planting, use seed-starting mix or a light potting soil, not garden soil, which can compact and prevent seedling emergence. Fill containers (pots at least 2 inches deep with drainage holes) with moist seed-starting mix. Plant stratified seeds about 1 inch deep. Some gardeners place two seeds per container to increase the chance of at least one germinating. Water gently and place containers in a warm location—65-70 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal for germination, which typically occurs within 2-4 weeks of planting.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged during germination. A spray bottle works well for watering seedlings because it applies moisture gently without disturbing seeds. Cover containers with plastic wrap or a humidity dome to maintain moisture levels. Once seedlings emerge and develop their first true leaves (the second set of leaves), remove the cover and provide bright light. A south-facing window or grow lights 4-6 inches above seedlings work well. If using artificial lights, provide 14-16 hours of light daily.

For direct planting outdoors, wait until the last frost date in your area has passed. Prepare garden soil by mixing in compost or aged organic matter to improve drainage and fertility. Plant stratified seeds 1 inch deep in rows or clusters. Water the area thoroughly and maintain consistent moisture through germination and early growth. Mark planted areas clearly so you don't accidentally disturb seeds. Provide protection from birds by placing netting over the planted area, or cover with row covers until seedlings are established.

Practical takeaway: Whether planting in containers or directly in gardens, keep soil consistently moist, provide warm temperatures during germination, and offer bright light to seedlings. Choose the planting method that best matches your climate and available resources.

Seedling Care and Development During the First Year

Once cherry seeds germinate and develop seedlings, their success depends on consistent care during that critical first year. Seedlings require adequate light, proper watering, protection from pests, and gradual acclimatization to outdoor conditions if started indoors. This year establishes the foundation for the tree's future health and vigor.

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For container-grown seedlings, provide 14-16 hours of bright light daily. Position grow lights or place containers on a sunny windowsill where they receive direct sunlight. Rotate containers every few days to ensure even light exposure and prevent seedlings from becoming leggy (tall and thin). Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Overwatering kills more seedlings than underwatering, so err on the side of caution. Use room-temperature water and water at soil level, not over foliage.

Once seedlings develop 2-3 sets of true leaves, they benefit from a diluted fertilizer applied every 2-4 weeks. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half strength. This provides nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium needed for healthy growth. When seedlings reach 2-3 inches tall, thin multiple seedlings from the same container, keeping only the strongest one. Use scissors to cut away weaker seedlings rather than pulling them out, which disturbs roots of remaining plants.

Before moving container-grown seedlings outdoors, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over 7-10 days. Place containers in a sheltered, shaded outdoor location for 2-3 hours on day one. Gradually increase outdoor time and light exposure each day. By day 7-10, seedlings can remain outside overnight if temperatures stay above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. This process t