Nasturtiums are one of those plants that seem almost too good to be true for home gardeners. They grow quickly, produce vibrant flowers that range from sunny yellow to deep crimson red, and they're genuinely hard to kill. But beyond their good looks, nasturtiums solve real problems in gardens. They attract beneficial insects like bees and hoverflies while simultaneously luring pests away from vegetables and herbs you actually want to eat. This natural pest management quality—called companion planting—means you might use fewer pesticides on your garden overall.
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The plant has been cultivated for centuries, with origins in South America dating back to the 1500s. Spanish conquistadors brought seeds back to Europe, and from there, gardeners worldwide fell in love with them. Today, nasturtiums show up in cottage gardens, container plantings, and vegetable patches across nearly every climate zone.
What makes nasturtiums particularly valuable for beginners is their forgiving nature. They tolerate poor soil that would discourage many other plants. They produce flowers even when neglected. Seeds germinate so readily that children often use nasturtiums in school garden projects. Yet despite their toughness, there's real skill involved in growing them well—knowing when to hold back on watering, understanding why too much fertilizer actually reduces flowering, and recognizing which varieties suit your specific space.
Practical takeaway: Nasturtiums bridge the gap between decorative and functional gardening. They're genuinely useful plants that also happen to look beautiful, making them worth learning about whether you garden in soil or containers.
Nasturtium comes in several distinct types, and the one you choose changes how your plant will behave in your garden. This matters because a variety that sprawls across six feet isn't ideal for a small patio, while a compact bush variety might get lost in a large vegetable bed. The primary division is between climbing (or trailing) varieties and dwarf bush types.
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Climbing nasturtiums, sometimes called vining nasturtiums, can reach lengths of six to ten feet under good conditions. Varieties like 'Crimson' and 'Moonlight' are classic climbers that produce abundant flowers. These work beautifully on trellises, fences, or trailing from hanging baskets. They tolerate partial shade better than dwarf types and often thrive when given something to climb. The flowering season extends longer in these varieties—sometimes producing blooms from early summer through the first frost.
Dwarf varieties like 'Alaska', 'Whirlybird', and 'Jewel Mix' stay compact at eight to sixteen inches tall and spread outward rather than upward. These work well for edging, container gardens, and small spaces. They flower profusely and mature quickly from seed. Because they're shorter, they're less likely to become leggy or thin-looking mid-season.
Beyond growth habit, nasturtium varieties differ in flower color and petal formation. Single-flowered varieties have the classic open-faced look with five petals. Double varieties like 'Hermine Grashoff' have layered, ruffled petals that look almost ornamental. Color ranges include not just red, orange, and yellow, but also cream ('Moonlight'), burgundy-red ('Empress of India'), and bi-colors ('Gleam' series). Some varieties are bred specifically for edible flowers, though essentially all nasturtium flowers are edible—it's just that certain varieties are particularly showy and flavorful.
Practical takeaway: Choose your variety based on your available space and what you want the plant to do—climb, fill a container, or edge a bed. This single decision prevents frustration later in the growing season.
Nasturtiums grow from seed more reliably than almost any other ornamental plant. Their large seeds are easy to handle, germinate quickly (typically within seven to ten days), and develop visibly fast. This makes them ideal if you want to start plants yourself rather than buying nursery starts. However, timing your seed planting matters significantly for results.
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Plant nasturtium seeds outdoors after the soil warms and the danger of frost passes. In most of North America, this means waiting until late spring—mid-May in northern regions, as early as April in southern ones. Nasturtiums are frost-sensitive; planting them too early results in seeds that sit dormant or rot in cold, wet soil. That impatience can actually set you back by weeks. Starting seeds indoors four to six weeks before your last frost date works if you have grow lights, but direct outdoor sowing is genuinely easier with nasturtiums.
The soil consideration is unusual for nasturtiums. Most plants prefer rich, amended soil. Nasturtiums actually perform better in poor to moderate soil. Rich soil loaded with compost and fertilizer encourages lush green leaves but discourages flowering. For best results, plant nasturtium seeds in ordinary garden soil or potting mix without added fertilizer. If you're container gardening, use standard potting soil, not premium fertilized mixes. This counterintuitive approach consistently produces more flowers and healthier plants.
Sow seeds directly into the ground about one inch deep, spacing them four to six inches apart for dwarf varieties or eight to twelve inches for climbers. Water gently after planting, then let the soil dry slightly between waterings. Once seedlings emerge, thin them to proper spacing rather than transplanting—nasturtium roots don't like disturbance. Seeds can be scarified (lightly roughed with sandpaper) to speed germination, though it's not necessary. Nasturtium seeds have a natural dormancy-breaking mechanism that usually works fine on its own.
Practical takeaway: The key to nasturtium seeds is patience about timing (wait for warm soil) and restraint about soil richness (poor soil actually works better). This runs counter to most gardening advice, so it's worth noting specifically.
Once nasturtiums are established, watering strategy becomes your biggest influence on plant performance. This is where many gardeners accidentally sabotage their plants by being too attentive. Nasturtiums evolved in semi-arid regions where water was inconsistent and soil dried between rains. They've adapted to this environment by storing water in their succulent leaves and stems. Overwatering doesn't make them grateful—it makes them rot.
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Water newly planted seedlings regularly until they establish a strong root system, which takes roughly three to four weeks. After that, dramatically reduce watering frequency. Established plants in ground soil need water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. This might mean weekly watering in drought conditions or fortnightly watering in normal years. In containers, water more frequently since pots dry faster than ground soil, but still allow the soil surface to dry between waterings. Let the plant's appearance guide you—wilting indicates it's time to water, but don't wait for permanent leaf damage.
Fertilizer deserves special mention because it's so counterintuitive. Nasturtiums grown in average soil need essentially no fertilizer. Feeding them monthly or even seasonally produces the opposite of what you'd hope for: weak, leggy plants covered in leaves but few flowers. The plant prioritizes vegetative growth over reproduction when nitrogen is abundant. If your soil is genuinely poor—sandy, depleted from previous heavy planting—a very dilute fertilizer application (quarter strength) once mid-season may help. For most gardeners and most situations, skipping fertilizer entirely produces better results.
This high-neglect approach actually reduces your workload dramatically. Nasturtiums reward you for not fussing over them. They flower prolifically on minimal care. In fact, the best gardens with the most abundant nasturtium flowers often belong to people who forget about them between waterings rather than those tending them anxiously.
Practical takeaway: Embrace restrained watering and zero fertilizing as your strategy. Nasturtiums want dry conditions and lean soil—the opposite of most houseplants and gardens. This saves time and money while producing more flowers.
Nasturtiums attract aphids like a magnet. This happens
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This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.