Free Kitchen Sink Faucet Replacement Guide

Understanding Kitchen Sink Faucet Basics

A kitchen sink faucet is one of the most frequently used fixtures in your home, with the average person using it 30 to 40 times per day according to water usage studies. Over time, faucets wear out from constant use, mineral buildup, and normal wear and tear. Understanding how your faucet works makes replacement less intimidating. Most modern kitchen faucets fall into a few basic categories: single-handle faucets that control both water temperature and flow with one lever, double-handle faucets with separate hot and cold controls, and touchless sensor faucets that activate with motion detection.

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The main parts of any faucet include the spout (the outlet where water comes out), the handle or handles that control water flow, the body or base that mounts to your sink, and internal cartridges or valves that regulate water temperature and pressure. When a faucet starts leaking, dripping, or losing water pressure, these internal components have typically worn out. A single faucet leak of just one drip per second can waste over 3,000 gallons of water annually, making replacement a practical choice for both your wallet and water conservation.

Before deciding to replace your faucet, you should know what type you currently have. Look under your sink at the base where the faucet connects to the countertop or sink. Count how many holes the faucet uses—this determines what replacement models will fit your sink. Some sinks have one hole, some have two, and some have three or more. This measurement is crucial because buying a faucet designed for a different number of holes means it won't fit properly, and you may need to pay someone to modify your sink or countertop.

Practical Takeaway: Measure the number of mounting holes at your sink basin before shopping for a replacement faucet. Take photos of your current setup to reference while shopping or when explaining your situation to store staff.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Replacing a kitchen faucet requires only basic tools that most homeowners already have available. The most important tool is an adjustable wrench, which will loosen and tighten the connections under your sink. You'll also need a screwdriver set with both Phillips and flathead options, a bucket or towel to catch water that will spill from existing connections, and possibly a flashlight to see better under the sink. Some people find a basin wrench helpful—this specialized tool is designed specifically for tightening faucet connections in tight spaces and costs between $10 and $30 at any hardware store.

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For materials, gather some plumber's tape (also called thread seal tape or PTFE tape), which prevents leaks at threaded connections. This inexpensive tape costs about $3 to $5 per roll and is reusable. You may also want to have some plumber's putty on hand, which seals the base of the faucet to the countertop. Plumber's putty comes in a small container for $4 to $8 and stays workable during installation. Have your replacement faucet nearby along with any mounting hardware it came with—manufacturers include specific bolts, nuts, and adapters designed for their models.

A key material to have ready is a bucket or several old towels. When you disconnect the water supply lines under your sink, trapped water will spill out. This water won't be dirty, but it will make a mess on your floors and cabinets if unprepared. Having absorbent materials ready prevents this cleanup headache. Some people also keep a camera or phone handy to take photos of their current setup before disassembly, which serves as a helpful reference during reassembly, particularly when remembering where various clips and clamps attach.

Practical Takeaway: Create a simple tool kit by gathering your adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, plumber's tape, and a bucket before starting work. Lay all tools on a nearby counter so you don't waste time searching during the job.

Steps for Removing Your Old Faucet

The removal process begins with turning off your water supply. Look under your sink for two small valves on the hot and cold water lines—these should be labeled clearly. Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. These shut-off valves prevent water from flowing into your faucet while you work. If you can't locate the valves or they don't turn, you may need to shut off the main water supply to your home, which is usually located in a basement or utility room. After shutting off the water, turn on the faucet at the sink and let any remaining water drain out—this relieves pressure in the lines.

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Next, place your bucket under the connections beneath the sink and disconnect the water supply lines. These are typically flexible hoses with nuts on each end. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts by turning them counterclockwise. You'll feel some water drip—this is normal and expected. Once the supply lines are disconnected, you'll see the mounting bolts that hold the faucet in place to the sink or countertop. Depending on your faucet type, these might be accessed from below (you'll need to reach up under the sink) or from above (you'll remove them from the top). Use your wrench or appropriate screwdriver to remove these bolts completely.

With the bolts removed, pull the old faucet up and away from the sink. Stubborn faucets sometimes stick because of mineral buildup or dried caulk. Apply gentle pressure and rock the faucet side to side rather than forcing it straight up. If significant caulk or putty sealed the faucet base to the countertop, use a putty knife or old butter knife to carefully scrape away this old material. Once the faucet is removed, clean the area thoroughly with a wet cloth and let it dry completely. You may also want to remove the old supply lines if they look degraded or if your new faucet came with new ones. Studies show that faucets installed with newer supply lines have fewer leaks in their first five years of use.

Practical Takeaway: Take a photo of your water shut-off valves before starting so you can locate them quickly if needed again in the future. Label them with colored tape for easy identification next time.

Installing Your New Faucet Correctly

Before installing the new faucet, read the manufacturer's instructions that came in the box—different models have slightly different installation sequences. Begin by examining the bottom of your new faucet to understand where the mounting bolts attach and how the supply line connectors orient. Most modern faucets come with rubber sealing washers that prevent leaks where the faucet connects to the sink or counter. These washers are crucial; don't install the faucet without them or you'll have water leaking through from the top.

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Position your new faucet in the mounting holes, ensuring it's centered and facing the right direction. From underneath the sink, thread the mounting bolts through the faucet base and hand-tighten them to hold the faucet in place. Check from above that the faucet sits flush against the countertop or sink rim with no gaps. Once you've confirmed proper positioning, tighten the bolts firmly (but not with all your strength—hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually sufficient). Over-tightening can crack the faucet body or your sink if it's delicate material like porcelain or stone.

Now connect the new supply lines to the shut-off valves. Most new faucets have flexible braided supply lines already attached, so you'll just connect the nuts to the existing valves. Wrap plumber's tape clockwise around the valve threads three times before making the connection—this tape fills tiny gaps and prevents leaks. Hand-tighten the supply line nuts, then use your wrench to turn them an additional quarter turn. Don't over-tighten these connections; they only need to be snug. If you over-tighten, you risk stripping the threads or cracking the valve. Many first-time installers overtighten here and create leaks they then mistakenly think are installation failures.

Practical Takeaway: Practice hand-tightening all connections first before using your wrench. This prevents the common mistake of over-tightening, which accounts for roughly 40% of post-installation leaks in DIY faucet replacements.

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