Free Guide to Planting Arborvitae Trees

Understanding Arborvitae Trees and Their Growing Characteristics

Arborvitae trees belong to the Thuja genus and represent some of the most popular evergreen choices for homeowners across North America. These trees maintain their foliage year-round, offering visual interest even during winter months when many deciduous trees have dropped their leaves. The name "arborvitae" comes from Latin, meaning "tree of life," a name given by early European explorers who encountered these trees in North America.

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Several species of arborvitae exist, with the eastern arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) and western arborvitae (Thuja plicata) being the most commonly planted varieties. The eastern variety grows well across USDA hardiness zones 2 through 8, making it suitable for much of the United States. Western arborvitae thrives in zones 5 through 9 and performs particularly well in the Pacific Northwest. There are also hybrid varieties available that offer intermediate characteristics and may perform better in specific regional conditions.

Arborvitae trees can range significantly in size depending on the cultivar selected. Some varieties grow as compact shrubs reaching only 3 to 5 feet tall, while others develop into towering trees exceeding 50 feet in height. The typical growth rate for arborvitae is 12 to 24 inches per year under favorable conditions, though this varies based on species, local climate, and soil quality. Most varieties develop a naturally narrow, columnar or pyramidal shape, making them particularly valuable for creating privacy screens or windbreaks in landscape settings.

The foliage of arborvitae differs from many other evergreens in texture and appearance. Rather than true needles, these trees produce scale-like leaves that grow in flattened sprays. This distinctive foliage gives arborvitae a softer, more refined appearance compared to pines or spruces. In fall and winter, many varieties develop warm bronze or reddish tones, adding seasonal color variation to landscapes. Some cultivars maintain their green coloring year-round, while others intentionally shift colors as temperatures drop.

Practical Takeaway: Before purchasing arborvitae trees, identify your USDA hardiness zone and research which species and cultivars perform best in your region. Choose a specific variety based on your desired final height and width to ensure it will fit your landscape plan without requiring excessive pruning or removal later.

Site Selection and Soil Preparation for Successful Planting

Selecting an appropriate planting location represents one of the most critical factors in arborvitae success. These trees perform best in locations receiving at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. While arborvitae can tolerate partial shade, trees planted in shadier locations typically develop less dense foliage and may appear thin or sparse. In hotter climates, particularly in zones 7 and 8, some afternoon shade protection can prevent heat stress and foliage browning during summer months.

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Soil conditions dramatically influence arborvitae growth and health. These trees prefer soil that drains well but retains moderate moisture. Poorly draining soil, particularly heavy clay that stays waterlogged, represents the primary reason arborvitae trees fail in home landscapes. Before planting, conduct a simple drainage test by digging a hole about 12 inches deep and filling it with water. If water remains in the hole after 24 hours, the drainage is poor and you may need to consider raised bed planting or install a drainage system. Conversely, very sandy soil that drains too quickly may require soil amendment with compost or peat moss to improve water retention.

The ideal soil pH for arborvitae ranges from 6.0 to 7.5, which covers neutral to slightly acidic conditions. Most soils fall within this range naturally, but a soil test can provide specific information about your planting area. Soil testing kits are available through local university extension services or online retailers at modest cost. These tests typically measure pH, nutrient levels, and organic matter content, providing specific recommendations for soil amendments if needed.

Prior to planting, prepare the planting area by removing grass and weeds from a circle extending 2 to 3 feet beyond where the tree's root ball will sit. Some gardeners choose to remove this vegetation manually, while others apply herbicide following label directions several weeks before planting. Loosen the existing soil in the planting area to a depth of at least 12 inches. If your soil is predominantly clay or sand, incorporate 2 to 4 inches of high-quality compost into the top 8 inches of soil. This amendment improves both drainage in clay soils and water retention in sandy soils while adding beneficial organic matter and microorganisms.

Practical Takeaway: Test your soil drainage before planting arborvitae by performing a simple water drainage test. If drainage is poor, plan to either improve the soil with amendments, create a raised bed, or select a different planting location to prevent future problems with root rot or fungal diseases.

Timing Your Planting and Acquiring Quality Trees

The best timing for planting arborvitae depends on your climate region and the form of tree you purchase. Container-grown arborvitae can be planted throughout the growing season from spring through early fall, as long as you provide consistent water during establishment. However, planting in spring or early fall allows trees several months to establish root systems before facing the most stressful season. Spring planting works well in northern regions where fall frosts arrive early, while fall planting (4 to 6 weeks before the first frost) suits southern and moderate climates better.

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Bare-root arborvitae trees, where the roots are bare of soil, should only be planted during dormant seasons in early spring or late fall. These trees are less forgiving of planting errors and require careful attention to prevent root drying. Balled-and-burlapped trees, where the root ball is wrapped in burlap, offer a middle ground and can be planted during spring and fall with generally good success rates. Container-grown trees are often the most forgiving option for home gardeners because the root system is already established in soil.

When selecting arborvitae trees from a nursery or garden center, examine the specimen carefully before purchasing. The foliage should be vibrant and full without brown patches, dead branches, or signs of pest damage. Gently inspect the trunk for damage, cankers, or wounds. If possible, tip the container to examine the roots; they should be white or light tan without a foul odor. Trees with roots circling the container, known as being "root-bound," may struggle to establish in the landscape. Choose trees with straight, undamaged trunks that match the natural form of the variety you selected.

Size considerations affect both planting success and landscape timeline. Smaller trees, typically 3 to 5 feet tall, generally establish more quickly and cost less than large specimens. However, larger trees provide more immediate visual impact. Most home gardeners find 4 to 6 foot tall trees represent a good compromise between establishment ease and landscape contribution. Container-grown trees of this size typically cost between $25 and $75 depending on the specific cultivar and local market conditions.

Practical Takeaway: Purchase container-grown arborvitae trees in spring or early fall, selecting specimens with full green foliage, straight trunks, and white root systems visible at the container's base. Plan to plant within a few days of purchase to prevent the root ball from drying out.

The Planting Process: Step-by-Step Instructions

Proper planting technique significantly influences arborvitae establishment success. Begin by removing the tree from its container approximately 30 minutes to 1 hour before planting. If the root ball is root-bound with numerous roots circling the outside, gently loosen some of these roots by hand or with a small garden fork. This encourages roots to grow outward into surrounding soil rather than continuing to circle. Some gardeners make three to four vertical cuts along the root ball surface and one horizontal cut across the bottom to encourage outward root growth.

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Dig a planting hole slightly wider than the root ball and just as deep. A common mistake involves digging holes that are too deep, which causes the tree to settle and become planted too deeply over time. This leads to root suffocation and disease problems. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground surface after planting, or slightly