Free Guide to Fixing Green Pool Water

Understanding Why Pool Water Turns Green

Green pool water is one of the most common problems pool owners face, and understanding the root cause is the first step toward clearing it. Green water typically results from algae growth, which thrives in pools when certain conditions align. Algae are single-celled organisms that multiply rapidly in warm water with insufficient chlorine levels and poor water circulation.

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There are three main types of algae that affect pools: green algae, yellow or mustard algae, and black algae. Green algae is by far the most common and the easiest to treat. This type causes the water to appear cloudy and bright green, sometimes resembling pea soup. Yellow algae is more resistant to treatment and often settles on pool walls and floors. Black algae forms dark spots and is the hardest variety to eliminate because it has a protective outer shell.

Several factors contribute to algae blooms. Low chlorine levels are the primary culprit—chlorine is the sanitizer that kills algae spores before they can establish themselves. When chlorine drops below 1 ppm (parts per million), algae can begin growing. High pH levels above 7.8 also reduce chlorine's effectiveness. Poor water circulation means dead spots where algae can settle undisturbed. Warm weather accelerates algae growth because algae thrive in temperatures above 70°F. Debris like leaves and dirt introduce organic matter that algae feed on.

Rain can also trigger algae growth by introducing organic compounds and diluting chlorine concentrations. This is why pools sometimes turn green suddenly after a storm. Additionally, if a pool sits unused for several days without proper maintenance, algae can gain a foothold quickly.

Practical takeaway: Green water results from low chlorine, poor circulation, high pH, or warm temperatures—not from contamination or danger alone. Identifying which factor caused the problem helps prevent future occurrences.

Testing Your Pool Water Before Treatment

Before you begin treating green pool water, you need to understand the current chemical balance. Testing reveals the exact chlorine level, pH, alkalinity, and sometimes calcium hardness. This information guides your treatment decisions and prevents over-treating or under-treating the water.

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Two main testing methods exist: test strips and liquid test kits. Test strips are quick and portable—you dip them in water and compare the color to a chart. They're inexpensive, typically costing $10 to $20 for a bottle of 50 strips. However, they're less precise than liquid kits. Liquid test kits involve adding chemical reagents to water samples and watching color changes. These cost $30 to $60 but provide more accurate readings, especially for chlorine and pH levels.

You should test at least three water samples from different areas of your pool—the deep end, shallow end, and middle. This reveals whether circulation problems exist. Take samples from about 12 inches below the surface, as surface water may have different concentrations than deeper water. Test during the morning before sunlight degrades chlorine levels, or at least note the time so you can track patterns.

The key measurements to understand are: free chlorine (the chlorine actively killing algae, ideally 2-4 ppm), total chlorine (free plus combined chlorine), pH (ideally 7.2-7.6), and total alkalinity (ideally 80-120 ppm). When pool water is very green or cloudy, chlorine readings on test strips may be difficult to read due to turbidity, but attempt the test anyway. Alkalinity buffers pH, so it should be balanced before adjusting pH.

Practical takeaway: Accurate water testing prevents guessing at chemical levels. Invest in a quality test kit and test multiple locations—it takes 10 minutes and determines your treatment approach.

Shocking Your Pool to Kill Algae

Pool shock is a high-dose chlorine treatment that quickly raises chlorine levels to kill algae, bacteria, and other contaminants. Shocking is the most effective first step for clearing green water and should be done in the evening to allow the chlorine to work overnight without being degraded by sunlight.

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Calcium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite are the two most common shock products. Calcium hypochlorite comes in powder or granule form and is more stable but can increase calcium hardness over time. Sodium hypochlorite is a liquid and doesn't increase calcium levels. Most pool owners use calcium hypochlorite because it's less expensive and more readily available. A typical pool requires 2-3 pounds of shock per 10,000 gallons of water for routine maintenance, but green water requires double or triple doses—sometimes called "super-chlorination."

To shock your pool, first dissolve the shock granules in a bucket of water according to package directions. Never pour dry shock directly into the pool, as it can damage the pool surface and create uneven treatment. Pour the dissolved shock around the pool perimeter while walking to distribute it evenly. Run your pool pump and filter continuously for 24 hours after shocking. The water will become cloudier before it clears—this is normal as dead algae particles suspend in the water.

For severely green pools, one shock treatment may not be enough. Retest the water after 24 hours. If chlorine is below 10 ppm or the water is still green, shock again. Some pools require two to three shock treatments over several days. Each treatment should be spaced 24 hours apart to allow time for testing and assessment. Avoid swimming until chlorine drops below 5 ppm, which usually takes 48 hours after shocking.

During shock treatment, pH may rise temporarily. This is acceptable and will stabilize as the pool circulates. If pH rises above 8.0, you can add pH decreaser after the initial shock, but wait at least 24 hours to allow the shock to work.

Practical takeaway: Shock treatment in the evening with the pump running continuously is the standard first response to green water. Multiple treatments spaced 24 hours apart work better than one massive dose.

Cleaning and Operating Your Filter System

A pool filter removes dead algae and debris from the water, so a clean, properly functioning filter is essential when clearing green water. There are three main filter types: sand filters, cartridge filters, and diatomaceous earth (DE) filters. Each requires different cleaning methods.

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Sand filters contain several feet of sand that traps particles. When the filter becomes clogged, water pressure rises on the pump gauge. You "backwash" the filter by reversing water flow to push collected debris out through a drain. To backwash, turn off the pump, move the multiport valve to "backwash," turn the pump back on, and run it until water exits the drain line clearly (usually 2-3 minutes). Then return the valve to "filter" and resume normal operation. Backwash every 24-48 hours while clearing green water, as the filter collects significant debris.

Cartridge filters trap particles on pleated fabric cartridges. When clogged, pressure rises just like sand filters. Instead of backwashing, you remove the cartridge and rinse it with a hose. For heavy algae loads, soak cartridges in a cleaning solution or replace them entirely. Cartridge filters should be rinsed every 24-48 hours during algae treatment.

DE filters use diatomaceous earth powder coating on grid elements. They trap the smallest particles but clog quickly with algae. Backwash the DE filter when pressure rises, just like sand filters, but you must add fresh DE powder after each backwash since it washes away. This makes DE filters expensive to operate during algae treatment but highly effective at clarifying water.

Run your filter continuously (24 hours per day) while treating green water. This maintains circulation, prevents dead spots where algae hide, and removes dead algae particles. Only turn off the pump during shock treatment application to allow the chlorine to disperse. A properly operating filter with good circulation is as important as chemical treatment for clearing green water.

Practical takeaway: Run your filter 24/7 during algae treatment and backwash or clean cartridges every 24-48 hours. A clogged filter becomes useless, so monitor pressure and clean frequently.

Using Algaecide and Clarifier Products