Most people who use self-tanning products don't realize that their mitt is essentially a magnet for product buildup, dead skin cells, and bacteria. Every time you apply spray tan or liquid bronzer, you're leaving behind a thin layer of the product on the mitt's surface. Over a few applications, these layers compound into a crusty, uneven coating that changes how the product applies to your skin.
Free Guide to SRP Online Electric Bill Payment β
A dirty mitt creates several problems that affect your tanning results directly. When product builds up, it becomes thick and uneven, meaning some areas of the mitt absorb more product than others. This causes streaky application β you'll notice darker patches on your legs or arms that don't match the rest of your tan. The buildup also makes the mitt less absorbent, so it doesn't pick up an even amount of product on each pass.
Beyond appearance issues, a grimy mitt can harbor bacteria and mold. Self-tanning products are usually water-based or silicone-based, creating a moist environment that microorganisms enjoy. If you're prone to skin sensitivities or have any small cuts or nicks, applying tan with a contaminated mitt increases your risk of irritation or infection. People with compromised immune systems or active acne should be particularly cautious about mitt hygiene.
The good news: regular cleaning prevents all of these problems and extends your mitt's lifespan significantly. A well-maintained mitt can last 12-18 months with proper care, while a neglected one becomes unusable within 3-4 months. Most people find that cleaning takes just a few minutes and should happen after every 2-3 tanning applications, or whenever you notice visible product buildup.
Practical Takeaway: Think of your tanning mitt like a makeup brush β it's a tool that comes into contact with your skin regularly. Just as makeup artists clean their brushes between clients, you should rinse your mitt between applications to maintain even color and skin health.
The simplest cleaning approach works for immediate post-tan cleanup and takes less than two minutes. Right after you finish applying your self-tanner, while the mitt is still slightly damp, hold it under lukewarm running water. Use your fingers to gently rub the surface, working the water through the entire mitt. This initial rinse removes excess product before it dries and hardens.
Free Guide to Sitting Comfort and Pain Relief Options β
When rinsing, focus on the areas where product accumulates most β typically the palm side and the tips of the fingers where you apply color to your face and hard-to-reach spots. Let the water run over these areas for 15-20 seconds, squeezing the mitt gently so water passes through the fabric. The goal isn't deep cleaning at this stage; you're just preventing product from setting permanently into the fibers.
After rinsing, squeeze out excess water (don't wring it like laundry, as this can damage the elastic and seams). Lay the mitt flat on a clean towel to air dry, or hang it in a well-ventilated area. Proper drying is crucial because moisture left inside creates an ideal breeding ground for mold and mildew. A mitt that smells like mold β a musty, distinctly unpleasant odor β has bacterial growth that requires more intensive cleaning.
Some users prefer a two-step rinse: first with plain water, then with distilled water. Distilled water prevents mineral deposits from tap water, which can leave faint stains and gradually dull the mitt's color. This is optional but helpful if you live in an area with hard water (water with high calcium and magnesium content).
The basic rinse method works best when done consistently. If you tan once a week, a quick rinse after each session keeps buildup from developing. The few minutes you spend rinsing prevent the need for intensive cleaning later.
Practical Takeaway: Rinse your mitt within 30 minutes of applying self-tanner while the product is still slightly damp β dried product is much harder to remove and will require stronger cleaning methods.
When your mitt shows visible brown staining, feels stiff, or hasn't been cleaned in several weeks, it needs a proper wash. This process takes about 10 minutes and involves mild soap, warm water, and gentle scrubbing. You'll need a soft brush β an old toothbrush, makeup brush, or soft nail brush works well β and a small bowl or sink.
Free Guide to Fixing Warped Vinyl Records β
Fill a bowl with warm (not hot) water and add a small squirt of gentle soap. Baby wash, unscented hand soap, or a specialized makeup brush cleaner all work. Avoid harsh dishwashing liquids or antibacterial soaps, which can dry out the mitt's fabric and break down elastic components. Submerge the mitt and let it soak for 3-5 minutes so water penetrates the fibers and loosens buildup.
After soaking, use your soft brush to gently scrub the mitt's surface, paying special attention to seams, creases, and areas where fingers join the palm. This is where product accumulates most densely. Work the brush in circular motions, applying light to moderate pressure β you want to remove buildup without damaging the fabric's texture. Scrub both the inside and outside thoroughly.
Rinse under running water, checking that all soap residue is gone. If the water still feels slippery or you see soap bubbles, rinse again. Soap residue left on the mitt interferes with product absorption and can cause streaking. Squeeze out excess water gently β this is important because trapped water inside the mitt promotes mold growth. If possible, use your fingers to work the water out rather than wringing.
For stubborn stains that don't come out with regular washing, you can try a paste made from baking soda and water. Apply this paste to stained areas, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then scrub gently. Baking soda is a mild abrasive that removes discoloration without damaging fabric. Rinse thoroughly afterward.
Dry the mitt completely before using it again. Lay it flat on a clean, dry towel in a warm room, or hang it in sunlight if possible. Sunlight has natural antibacterial properties. Complete drying takes 4-6 hours depending on humidity. Never store a damp mitt in a closed container or drawer, as trapped moisture causes mold and mildew.
Practical Takeaway: Deep cleaning with soap and water should happen once every 2-3 weeks if you tan regularly, or whenever you notice visible staining or a musty smell.
Beyond soap and water, several products are specifically designed for cleaning cosmetic application tools. These include makeup brush cleansers, which cut through product residue effectively, and disinfectant solutions like hydrogen peroxide or vinegar-based cleaners. Understanding when each is useful helps you choose the right approach for your situation.
How to Delete Your Yahoo Mail Account β
Makeup brush cleansers are formulated to remove cosmetic product buildup from delicate fibers. Products like Cinema Secrets Brush Cleaner or Beautyblender Solid cleanser work well on tanning mitts because they're gentler than dish soap while being more effective at breaking down product residue. These cleaners cost between $8-15 per bottle and last many months since you use small amounts. To use: wet the mitt, rub it across or into the cleanser, work it in with your fingers or a soft brush, then rinse thoroughly.
Hydrogen peroxide (the standard 3% solution available at pharmacies) serves as a disinfectant and mild stain remover. This is useful if your mitt has developed mold or mildew spots. Soak the mitt in a 50/50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water for 15-20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly and dry completely. Hydrogen peroxide has antimicrobial properties and can help restore a mitts that smell musty. However, don't use this method more than once monthly, as repeated peroxide exposure can weaken fabric fibers.
White vinegar mixed with water (1 part vinegar to 3 parts water) serves a similar disinfectant purpose and also helps remove mineral deposits from hard water.
This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.