Free Guide to Building Wooden Stairs at Home

Understanding Basic Stair Anatomy and Building Code Requirements

Before picking up a single tool, understanding how stairs are constructed and what your local building codes require is essential. Stairs consist of several key components: treads (the horizontal part you step on), risers (the vertical boards between treads), stringers (the angled support beams on each side), handrails, and balusters (vertical spindles that support the handrail). Each piece plays a specific role in making stairs safe and functional.

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Building codes exist in nearly every jurisdiction to ensure stairs meet safety standards. The International Building Code (IBC), adopted by most U.S. states and municipalities, specifies that residential stairs must have treads between 10 and 11 inches deep (measured from the front of one tread to the front of the next). Riser heights—the vertical distance between treads—must be between 7 and 8 inches. These measurements might seem small, but they're critical. If risers vary by more than 3/8 of an inch from one step to another, you create a tripping hazard. A person climbing stairs develops a rhythm, and an unexpected change in step height causes falls.

Handrails must be between 34 and 38 inches high, measured from the tread nosing (the front edge of the step). Balusters spaced more than 4 inches apart create a hazard—a child's head could pass through. Your local building department can provide your specific code requirements, and many offer free consultations. Some jurisdictions require permits and inspections for interior stairs, while others only mandate them for exterior or commercial stairs. Checking before you start prevents costly mistakes and ensures your finished stairs are both legal and safe.

Practical Takeaway: Contact your local building department to obtain a copy of stair requirements. Request information on whether your project requires a permit and when inspections occur. Having this information before starting saves time and ensures compliance.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Building stairs requires specific tools and materials. Start with measuring and marking tools: a tape measure (at least 25 feet), a carpenter's square, a speed square, a framing square, and a level. These tools help you mark stringers accurately and ensure stairs are plumb (perfectly vertical) and level. A circular saw or miter saw cuts stringers and treads, while a table saw makes rips (cuts along the grain). You'll also need a power drill, hammer, nail gun (helpful but not mandatory), and chisels for fine adjustments. Safety equipment—including a dust mask, safety glasses, and hearing protection—protects you during cutting and sanding.

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Materials depend on your stair style. Stringers can be made from 2x12 lumber (actual dimensions 1.5 inches by 11.25 inches) or larger, depending on span. Treads are typically 1x10 or 1x12 solid wood, or can be constructed from plywood covered with hardwood. Risers can be solid wood, plywood, or skipped entirely in some designs. You'll need various fasteners: 2.5-inch and 3.25-inch wood screws, 2.5-inch nails, and 1.25-inch finish nails. Construction adhesive bonds glued joints. Wood filler patches gaps, and wood stain or paint provides the finish.

For a typical straight staircase with 13 steps, estimate needing six to eight pieces of 2x12 lumber for stringers (depending on width), thirteen pieces of 1x10 for treads, plywood for risers, and various smaller materials. Prices vary by region and wood type. Softwood stringers cost roughly $10-20 per piece, while hardwood treads range from $25-75 each depending on species and quality. Budget for sandpaper, stain, polyurethane finish, and miscellaneous hardware. A complete project might cost $300-800 in materials, excluding special finishes or premium wood.

Practical Takeaway: Create a detailed materials list based on your specific stair design. Visit a local lumber yard and discuss your project; staff can help identify quality lumber and suggest alternatives that fit your budget and aesthetic preferences.

Calculating Rise and Run for Your Staircase

Calculating rise and run correctly determines whether your stairs feel natural to climb and meet code requirements. Rise refers to total vertical height from the lower floor to the upper floor. Run refers to total horizontal distance your stairs cover. These measurements dictate individual riser height and tread depth. Getting these calculations wrong results in stairs that feel awkward, unsafe, or impossible to complete in your space.

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Start by measuring total rise. Find the exact height from the finished floor of your lower level to the finished floor of your upper level. Measure vertically in at least two locations if floors aren't level. Let's say total rise is 9 feet 6 inches, or 114 inches. Divide 114 inches by 7.5 inches (a target riser height in the middle of the code range). This gives you 15.2 steps. Since you can't have a partial step, round to 15 steps. Now divide 114 by 15, which equals 7.6 inches per step—within code.

Next, calculate run. If each tread is 10 inches deep, multiply by the number of treads. Important: you have one fewer tread than risers. With 15 risers, you have 14 treads. Fourteen treads at 10 inches each equal 140 inches (about 11 feet 8 inches) of horizontal distance. This is your total run. When planning your staircase location, ensure you have adequate floor space. A utility staircase might use 9-inch treads to save space (14 treads × 9 inches = 126 inches), while a primary staircase might use 11-inch treads for comfort (14 treads × 11 inches = 154 inches).

Document your final measurements. Create a simple sketch showing rise-per-step, tread depth, total rise, and total run. These calculations guide every subsequent step. Many online stair calculators exist; entering total rise generates riser height, tread depth, and number of steps. Verify calculations twice—errors compound through the entire project.

Practical Takeaway: Measure total rise in three different locations. Calculate riser height and tread depth using code-compliant ranges. Write down all measurements and keep them accessible throughout the project. Verify calculations before cutting any stringers.

Cutting and Installing Stringers: The Structural Foundation

Stringers are the backbone of your staircase. These angled boards support all weight and must be cut and installed perfectly. For a typical residential staircase, you need at least two stringers—one on each side—though three stringers provide better support for wider stairs. Most home staircases use two or three stringers spaced 36-48 inches apart.

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Start by creating a full-scale stringer template. Using your framing square and calculated measurements, mark stringer notches on a 2x12 board. The framing square has a body and tongue; you'll use it to mark triangular notches that your treads and risers sit in. For a 7.6-inch riser and 10-inch tread, position the square so the 10-inch mark on one arm aligns with one edge of the board, and the 7.6-inch mark on the other arm aligns with the same edge. Draw a line along the body and tongue to create the tread surface. Shift the square down and repeat for each step. Once marked, the profile shows a sawtooth pattern. Cut along these lines using a circular saw or hand saw. Avoid cutting completely through the top of the stringer; stop about 1.5 inches from the edge to maintain structural integrity.

After cutting your template stringer, test-fit it between floors. The top should rest on the upper floor with the nosing (front edge of the tread) just below the floor level. The bottom should rest firmly on the lower floor. If gaps exist, make adjustments. Only after confirming the fit should you cut additional stringers using the template as a guide.

Install stringers by securing them to the upper and lower floors using lag bolts or construction screws. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting, especially in hardwoods. For a three-stringer stair